Canoeing through historic lands, Montana’s Missouri River Breaks

The river was wide, cloudy and flat, not what I’d expected of historic headwaters. Its banks were so thick with mud that I hesitated to wade in. But my husband was waiting in the stern, so I got in the bow without a word, and we pushed away from the landing.

As we glided into the main channel behind our guides and two other couples in canoes, I wondered why we had flown from